Sunday, 30 March 2014

Finished - YOU ARE GOLD! pants

So a while ago I found some AMAZING gold printed linen at Darn Cheap, and the practical part of me said 'swish but not for you'. I wandered on my way but I couldn't forget it, and so eventually one Saturday morning I dragged my beloved in and showed it to him - I was thinking pleated pants, and he agreed that'd be a mighty cool combination.  Especially to wear to the now-very-sadly-postponed Rolling Stones concert that was our Xmas present to each other. So home it came with us. Months passed. My Burda trousers kinda sucked, then my many pairs of shorts kinda sucked and I was over trousers majorly. Couldn't face the idea of another fly front. But then I saw Kelli and Amy's Tessuti Suzy pants, and began to think that this could be my solution - crazy puffy pleated gold pants sans fly front! And so they were born. And they are indeed crazy, puffy, pleated and gold.




Now full acknowledgement to Tessuti's here - linen is not one of the recommended fabrics - they specifically recommend fabrics with plenty of drape - rayon, viscose and silk - super flows fabric. But this was a fairly fine and drapey linen, and I thought it would probably be ok. My verdict - ok - just. They are a bit too full and puffy right at the centre front - really not the region that a lady needs extra volume and puffiness, but with a fitted top they're kept reasonably under control, and without hands in pockets the mega-puff is not too bad.




I cut the size small, but probably should have graded from an extra small waist to a small in the hips. They are a very generous size. These trousers are designed to be pull on, with an elasticated waistband but I'm afraid the idea of gold elasticated-waist pants was a bit too Golden Girls for me - I just don't need extra gathered bulk there. There's a few versions with elastic only in the back waistband out there, but not really a lot of info on how-to so I kind of had to wing it. I decided to cut 2 of each waistband piece. I interfaced the pieces that became the waistband facings, and when I attached the facing to the outer pieces at the top of the pants I used a 2cm seam allowance to try to make the finished waistband a little narrower (the pattern just says to turn the top edge of the unfaced waistband piece over to make a tunnel for the elastic - not the most stylish of finishes I have to say). Then I just stitched the waistband facing down in the ditch - much neater and tidier. Initially I planned to just shirr the whole back waistband piece, but after I did this it wasnt anywhere near tight enough so I threaded a narrow piece of elastic through at the top and stitched it down at each side seam. It's probably still not quite tight enough (they sit a bit low) - I may yet go back and add another piece. 





Because I don't have an overlocker/serger I am finding more and more that I think about how I will finish my seams right at the start of the planning stages of a garment, even before actually purchasing a pattern. I often choose to leave pockets out of a garment so that I can french my side seams, or change the pockets to slanted pockets, but this time I used this tutorial, which instructs how to make in seam pockets using french seams. It's pretty awesome. There is only the tiniest snip of raw fabric at the bottom of the pocket - the rest are all beautifully enclosed. I'm very impressed with it! I ended up doing french seams for every seam, and am really happy with the finish.

 

I also ended up narrowing the legs on the inner leg seams (to avoid mucking around with the pocket seams) to take out a bit of leg volume. I hemmed them a lot shorter than recommended too - I think the cropped length helps reduce the frump factor.



Now I was fully expecting my beloved to hate these. I made them while he was away for work, and presumed they would slot neatly into man-repelling territory but to my suprise I got a slightly ambivalent 'they're not terrible' (plus a query that 'weren't they meant to be a nicer slimmer less crazy style', but let's ignore that one). That probably sums them up - not terrible, but not stratospherically fabulous either. I do think they're a little bit fabulous though - what's your verdict? I won't be upset if you hate them - they're not the most sensible thing I've made, but I think Mick and co would have loved them!




35 comments:

  1. I think they're awesome! And the way you styled them is just perfect - keep everything else simple, and just let these pants shine (hehehe!).

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    1. Thanks Gail! I suspected you'd like them - I know you like a bit of metallic razzle dazzle!

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  2. I like them, even with the poof and elastic. You are right, and slimmer version would be fabulous, but actually I love that fabric color right now, it's not to shiny or yellow, a very cool gold that can totally work as a neutral. Does that fabric have any stretch? I kinda want some!

    And maybe a serger needs to be in you future! As much as I love French seams.... It's so easy to finish in the serger. Although sometimes makes alterations more difficult.

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    1. Oh a serger will definitely be in my future! Thanks Rachel - it's such a great fabric. Hopefully the gold doesn't wash away!

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  3. *heart eyes emoji* I love these so much! I would wear them exactly as they are, they are dreamy. My boyfriend would definitely hate them, but I'm totally keeping an eye out for gold fabric now. Thanks for the details on making the elastic-back, flat-fronted waistband, I really want to try something like that. Good job on the French seams, too, super tidy.

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    1. Haha thanks Katie - I'm glad you like them. Your pleated trousers are fab - I'd already cut these out when I saw that pattern and was a little sad. I'm sure you'd be able to find metallic linen somewhere in the Uk!

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  4. They are definitely fabulous! Beautiful French seams and excellent waistband alteration. I think that they look fantastic. And guess what - I have some of that fabric too....

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    1. Thanks Lara! Why does it not surprise me that you have some too?! Was awesome to meet you on Saturday - really made my day! :)

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  5. Fabulous pants, very rock 'n roll! And the Stones have only postponed, you will get to wear them. An overlocker will be an excellent addition to your sewing room but I was interested in your comment about planning your seam finishes. Once upon a time I overlocked everything, even if that perhaps wasn't the most appropriate finishing method, I thought it was fast and neat. But now I am a little more discerning and my most recent obsession is seam binding. My latest project is a wool frock that frays like all get out but the fabric is just slightly too thick to overlock the edges together. I had read a seam binding tutorial on the Lilacs and Lace blog (don't you love the wonders of the interwebs?? I tried to copy a link but it was all gobbly gook) and thought it looked interesting. So I procured some Hug Snug from The Zipper Shop (via Ebay, I couldn't source an Australian supplier) and it is fabulous stuff. Yes it certainly takes more time than whacking it through the overlocker, but it looks so very pretty.

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    1. Yes you are right, I'll be able to rock them later this year, poor mick and co! I do have some rayon seam binding I bought from the USA (like you couldn't get it in Aus and was actually told by a staff member in a fabric store here that it didn't exist!) which I use on heavier fabrics. I think I've seen that lilac and lace posting. I'll check out the hug snug - never heard of it. I do love a french seam!

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  6. I think they look great! The fabric is fabulous and the alterations you made to the pattern really elevated it style-wise. I'll definitely remember that waistband technique - thanks :) And "they're not terrible" can be high praise from a husband, so well done you!

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    1. Thanks Danielle. I was totally convinced that he'd hate them!

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  7. I love these pants, they're really cool, the fabric is great. I love that the silhouette is a bit stiff (like The Rolling Stones these days too I guess)!

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    1. Haha thanks Melanie! I think petrified is a more accurate description of the stones, bless them!

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  8. your pants look terrific! And I love the waistband treatment you used.

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    1. Thanks Sara - it turned out surprisingly well!

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  9. these are amazing. as is. and i think your back waistband is genius.

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    1. Thanks Kelli - it truly was your pair that made me think I could like this pattern! I really like the look of shirring, and I have a RTW skirt that has shirring panels in the he waistband which gave me the idea.

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  10. French-seamed pockets! Holy crap! Did not even know it was possible. Personally, I like this silhouette quite a bit - I think it looks great with all kinds of fitted jersey tops (and sometimes not-so-fitted ones, too!) - and your take on it is awesome!

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    1. I know! That's what I thought when I read about the tutorial (on Rue des Renards blog a whole ago). They don't take that much more effort, you just have to be super careful with seam allowances. I'm glad you like them, I really need to wear them with a fitted top I think to balance it all out. I'm debuting them formally today - very excited!

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  11. Yay for gold pants. Love them, and yep a nice snug top reels in the fullness just nicely :)

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  12. I think they are a whole lot of awesome. I really like how you've done the flat front and the elastic back. And that fabric is just ace!

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    1. Thanks Kirsty - I keep think it would be amazing as a skirt too. Or a dress. I am loving it as crazy pants though!

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  13. Wow - awesome! I'm definitely one of those 'if i keep thinking about it, that means I really want it' people, so good for you that you went back and bought that amazing gold fabric!!

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    1. Thanks Jen! I know i tend to to get a twitchy feeling leaving behind a beautiful fabric - must be the addiction part of my brain taking over!

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  14. Oh, these are fabulous all the way. The fabric is superb as is the fit. Super chic!

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  15. Big thanks for this wonderful blog On Linen Pants. I will come back for more updates.

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  16. I think they're fabulous!! And totally agree that the styling is spot on! ANDI am in love with those shoes!

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    1. Thanks Nettie! Now I just need our Australian autumn and winter to speed by so I can wear them in nice warm weather! :)

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  17. Featured on SSB https://facebook.com/sassysewingbees ❀

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  18. I just discovered your blog via. the comments section of The Little Tailoress "Emily Thorne Silk Blouse". I really love your metallic trousers and I think your seam finishes most definitely outweigh the overlocked method. Some time ago I also went hunting for the Hug Snug and found a great supplier in the UK called Crafty Ribbons. It is 100% Rayon Seam Binding and 1 Pound per bag of 5 metres, or buy 5 bags + 1 bag free, and there are 124 colours available. They are absolutely lovely people to deal with and the postage is cheaper than from the US. Just thought that info. might be helpful to someone at some stage.

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    1. Thanks Deb, that's great to know. I've still got a fair bit left but I'll keep that in mind when I need more! Thanks for coming by :)

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