Wednesday, 6 November 2013

Wearable muslin - Burda 7250 or, Fabric Tragic Vs Pants, round 3

I do believe I am winning the battle between myself and trouser construction. My recent Elle pants have been a great success, worn at least once or twice a week to work (sadly the cheap and nasty fabric is pilling appallingly, but version 2.0 is in the planning stages). I'm pretty happy with this pair too, a wearable muslin, Burda 7250...



These are a semi fitted cropped pant, with side seam pockets, front pleats, back darts and a fly front. My second fly front ever (first being my husband's Jedediah shorts, as yet unblogged)!  The fabric is a blue-teal cotton twill that I found at an op-shop. Its actually quite nice, and will be a good durable fabric for work trousers. I've got some awesome ikat print fabric that might be version 2, and once my pattern is perfected some linen for warm summer nights.

I cut a size 12, and didn't worry about the pockets, which was just as well as they were are little snug around my thighs and bum, and I ended up taking an extra 3/4 inch from each side seam (reducing the seam allowance from 5/8 to 2/8 inch) which would have left no room for pockets! They are still a bit snug - maybe half a size too small, but I am hoping with the arrival of some proper warm weather that motivates me to exercise a little more and eat a little less I will trim down a little winter flab and they will fit that little bit better - nothing like some ambition pants!


Fit-wise they are pretty good - there is the slightest gape in the back waistband - the pattern has belt loops (which I couldn't be bothered doing right now) - I'm sure a belt would help. I could always do a little sway back adjustment for the next version I suppose. The waistband is straight - maybe a curved waistband a bit like the Colette Clover pants might suit me better..... As other sewists have noted there is no fly-shield, which means if your zip has a wardrobe malfunction you'd better be wearing undies! My next version I will use the instructions/pattern piece from the Jedediah shorts and see how I go.


I was a bit of a nuffy and cut the waistband ends off before realising they needed to overlap, so I will have to use a large hook and eye for closure (in the photos they are being held together rather precariously with a safety pin). I've also hemmed them longer than the pattern, without the cropped cuff, because they looked a bit gumby with my work brogues.

I will do pockets in version 2 - at this stage I am planning my other big sewing challenge of the year - welt back pockets (challenge 1 was a fly front - tick!) as the big expanse of fabric-clad arse really isn't that great - I love the look of welt pockets. The side pockets are in-seam, and I was thinking I might also try to alter them to be angled pockets. Maybe I'm biting off more than I can chew with that......

I'm also wearing my first summer Maria Demark tee that I cut out last weekend in my epic prep day - this is a free pattern, available here, and I love it. It's super easy, took about an hour to make with kimono sleeves, and just made for this lovely frenchy stripe in a nice quality cotton-lycra ($2/m @ B&J Fabrics in Brunswick for those in Melbourne - bargain!). I didn't finish the neckline as suggested in the instructions - I couldn't manage to make it look good with fold over elastic, and didn't want the look of a band, so instead cut a single layer of the fashion fabric 23cm long, stitched the right sides together, then flipped it inside and stitched it down with a very slight zigzag a bit like a facing. I think this pattern is perfect for stripes and looks good tucked in or left out loose. Get on it!



14 comments:

  1. This pattern is on my to-do list for work pants, and I'm so glad you posted your work and comments! They look great on you, and it's so nice to see how they actually sew up. Can't wait to see your next version :)

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    1. Thanks Meg! Let me know how yours turn out!

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  2. Now that is what fashion forward, flattering pants look like. Oftentimes, I HATE pleated pants, but this pair looks fab!

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    1. Thanks Rachel - I think it's because the pleats are stitched down rather than being all full and nasty and adding bulk where one doesn't need it! There some really ace versions of these out there!

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  3. Your pants look great. Really lovely fit and that top! Wow it looks perfect in that fabric. Your neck finish sounds ingenious... I must get this pattern.

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    1. Thanks Kirsty, I think the kimono tee would really suit you too!

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  4. Yay for conquering pants! I've made this pattern twice now (with two muslins) and I had to draft myself a curved waistband. For my third version, I also want to try slanted front pockets and welt pockets in the back to reduce the rear-end expanse thing. We can cheer each other on!

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    1. Thanks Morgan! There's a really good tutorial on Very Purple Persons blog for adapting for slant pockets, that's what I'll try! Good luck with yours!

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  5. Wow I love your version of these pants. They look fabulous. I'm always a bit wary of pleat front pants as they add so much bulk in undesirable area (AKA hips) on me. I'd love to conquer pants, have a few patterns but always shudder in fear and never get started. Incidentally I can find nowhere to download that kimono tee, it appears not to be a listed pattern anymore:( Very sad, I love it, it's such a great staple!

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    1. Thanks Jillian - stitching the pleats flat really helps I think. I'm sure when I looked at Maria's blog a little pop up to sign up for her news letter and get the kimono tee pattern appears......

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  6. These look AMAZING! I'd say you've definitely won the trouser battle! And what a great outfit :) You've inspired me to dig out my almost-but-not-quite-working trousers again and have another go...

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    1. Thanks Danielle! I insist you start some selfish sewing after those amazing wedding frocks - instantly if not sooner!

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  7. I really like this pattern it's great! I think I'm in the same boat with the "hoping to lose weight in order to get wear out of this make" scenario. Ah, pants, I will conquer you and your fitting curse!!

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    1. Yeah - sad but great motivation nonetheless!

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